Sailing far far away, and a little further.

First of all, I'd like to confirm to you all I am indeed alive and well and home at long long last. I sailed successfully from Darwin in Australia 2900 miles to Phuket in Thailand. It took a month, was probably one of the hardest things I've ever done but saw some incredible things, ate some lush fish and got a lovely tan. I did write a blog to post in Christmas Island, however being a tiny little dot in the Indian Ocean means there wasn't very good internet so this blog is divided into two parts.

PART 1 - DARWIN TO CHRISTMAS ISLAND

Geez what a journey. I've made it to Christmas Island, halfway through my epic voyage.

Sailing

So we (me and skipper Michael) set sail at 1.30pm on Saturday 24th July aboard a 42ft catemerang yacht called Shayler heading west to our first stop Ashmore Reef. Experienced a couple of rounds of sea sickness over the first couple of days which was lovely and at first I found it very difficult to cook down in the little kitchen without feel rather queasy but I´m getting pretty used the constant rolling now. Was particularly tired and queasy one evening a couple of days ago but all was made better after I sat at the front of the boat for an hour in front of an awesome sunset watching 50 odd dolphins swimming and jumping along side.

We divide each night into 4 3 hour watches where you have to watch out for other boats and storm clouds and general happenings with the sail. It´s been pretty tough in all honesty getting up at random hours and trying hard to keep my eyes open. Especially tricky because when something goes wrong it seems ten times worse in the dark of the night. On the other hand there´s an immense stary sky to look at and book to read (I´ve made it through 4 and a half so far). Key is having plenty of naps during the day to make up.

Foods been a funny one. I just haven´t really had an appetite for the past 5 or so days which if you know me or have been reading this blog is very very unusual in the world of Grace. Sometimes my stomach actually hurts with hunger and I can´t face eating anything more than an apple...we´re reaching land soon, I´m going in full search of ice cream, cake and pizza.

Ashmore Reef

So 500 miles, 3 days, west of Darwin is the Ashmore Reef. Turned up and kindly got escorted into the reef by Australian Customs which is very unusual. Turns out the sea between Darwin and Christmas Island is key route for boats full of illegal immigrants so we´ve had many chats with Australian Customs over the radio. We were the only yacht there and couldn´t have been more in the middle of nowhere. The reef is pretty big and contains lots of beautiful coral and 3 small sand islands. We were only allowed to visit one - West Island, in my mind it´s the definition of a desert island. Circled by a narrow white sand beach and mangrove trees, the island has 1 palm tree, 1 other tree, some Indonesian graves, birds and lots of turtle nesting sites.

Did few bits of snorkelling too. I tells you it were a-maaaaz-in. (Better than Whitsundays sorry ladies). Soo many little random reef fish and I even saw a pretty large shark although I had a spear for self defence so Copper was safe. Floating about a fair few fish had some characteristics of yous lot so I´m going to describe a few.

-The fish with scales whiter and than white that blended into the sandy bottom - Ray Read

-The fish that nibbled on everything - Stephen

-The flying fish (turns out they actually exist) - Grace Gimson

-Lastly a fish with vibrant (almost neon) stripes of white, yellow and black, blatently gagging for the next underwater rave - Mackley

So thats it for now, I´m off to explore Christmas Island and might put a little info up before I leave. It´s the same distance as it was from Darwin to here again to Phuket, Thailand so about 10 days which seems like an awfully long time right now, I just keep imagining all your beautiful faces to keep me going.

PART 2 - CHRISTMAS ISLAND TO PHUKET

Spent 4 nights at Christmas Island, a lovely slightly random little place in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Originally and mainly populated by Chinese and Malay people the island is now inhabited for 2 main reasons. 1) A phosphate mine and 2) the Australian detention and asylum centre. This makes for a little close knit community where there's zero unemployment so many people do 2 jobs. Anyway I did plenty of exploring.

Crabs

Got a lift to the Christmas Island Hash House Harriers running session in the middle of the island. The island is covered in dense rainforest and as I was going along the tracks I would come across the occasional Robbo Crab. The place is literally crawling with a whole variety of crabs. These Robbo ones are the size of a small cat and live to like 80 years old. Theres also thousands of little red and grey crabs about the place, kinda surreal and apparently when they all migrate to the sea in October the whole island stinks because everyone runs them over and then they rot in the sun.

Other than that I did some mopeding around to see the gorgeous landscape, some tiny seccluded beachs and massive stretches of coast with huge crashing waves. Slightly delayed departure due to an incident involving the sea, a small motor dingy, alcohol and a loss of balance leading to a loss of camera and wallet. Not the most ideal situation to be in but just about managed to resurrect the situation.

Sailin

Set off for Phuket. At first all was good, did a 6 hour shift each during the night which worked out a lot lot better, got my appetite back. However, about 4 days in, as the sun was setting we sailed towards a very dark and ominous looking line of clouds with a flat bottom (this means bad weather). Proceeded to spend a night in horrible stormy gale force winds which were blowing us back in the direction we came, the boat was crashing about all over the place, the captain was sick, one the engines broke, just a generally unideal situation so next morning we took cover.

At this point we were sailing up the west coast of Sumatra so we headed towards the off islands of Sumatra to take a more protected route. Weaving in and out of these tiny little islands was incredible. Packed with palm trees and you see the occasional fishing boats coming and going. However the epicentre of the 2004 Tsunami was only a few hundred miles north of this area and what with them being so tiny and exposed I dread to think of the impact which it must have had.

Rest of the sailing was a similar story with winds blowing the wrong way or just not blowing at all but we just has to keep going.

Fish

Fishings well easy off the boat. Just put a little plastic octopus and massive hook on a strong line, let it drag behind and wait. Caught 3 fish, each almost 1 metre long. First a tuna (I made sushi), then a Mahi Mahi (it was gold when we got it out the water, then it turned silver with blue spots, and once it was finally dead it turned gold again - tasted lush) finally caught a massive Spanish mackerel (again over a metre long).

Home straight

As we came up round the top of Sumatra to cross over east to Thailand we had to cross the beginning/end of the Malacca Straight's (the equivalent of the M25 for container ships). In darkness my watch happened to coincide with the busiest section. Other than the stormy stormy night it was the scariest thing. At point there would be 8 container ships all around you, you have to try and work out where they're going and if they'll hit you. One came within a 1/4 of a mile of the boat, we literally would have been crushed if it was on a slightly different course.

Finishing up

So made it into Thailand a fair few days behind schedule. Despite only having a few hours in Phuket I think I pretty much managed to eat everything, then flew to Singapore, had a Singapore Sling at Raffles Hotel then finally boarded my plane home.

And here I am sitting at 10 Goldney Avenue on the remains of my final day of travelling. I'm exhausted and have definitly written to much, I hope you didn't worry too much. Thank you for reading,

Love from Grace

P.S I will put some pictures up in the next week or so, promise.

Last stop in Aus

After leaving the girls in the hands of a random couch surfing host in Brisbane I boarded my plane up to Darwin. I know you've all probably heard it before but the size of this country still amazes me, Brisbane over to Darwin is longer than flying the length of Europe. Anyway, I've had a very fun week up in the Northern Territory, being on my own again has opened up a lot of random opportunities so heres a few.

Australian football

Waiting for a bus back to my hostel I overheard a group of people saying they had a spare ticket to a football game (I assumed standard english soccer). I asked in my nicest english accent whether I might be able to take it off my hands. One hour later I'm standing at the Darwin stadium with a donated Bulldogs football scarf around my neck watching Melbourne Bulldogs vs Adelaide Port Power. Turns out Australian football and English football are two very different sports. Aussie football is played on an oval pitch, has a similar ball to american football and you hit the ball to each other like volleyball but then score points like rugby. Good game to watch and my new team (Bulldogs) won so all was good.

Jet skiing

After putting a few messages around on couch surfing one local (Frank) offered to take me out on his jet ski for the day. Went all around the Darwin harbour, tried to spot some crocodiles, watched an old Aussie sheila doing renditions of Amy Winehouse in a bar on the other side of the harbour. I had a go at driving and hit 110km/hr, turned a corner a little to sharply throwing the local straight off the back.

Mud crab

One of the local catches out in the harbour are mud crabs. After a night out on the town with some pearl harvesters another local (Irish Paul) offered to buy me a mud crab. Next day I took him up on his offer, along with some donated Red Emperor me and Welsh Ruth cooked up a seafood feast. Crab and fish were exceptionally good.

Other than that I've been working on finding a way out of this lovely country on a boat. And I found one. Originally I planned to travel on a rally of about 100 boats up north to Indonesia. However, I was introduced to Michael Moloney who lives and sails a 42ft catarmerang called Shayler. Hes not actually on the rally. We will be heading out on Saturday morning and will be sailing up the Thailand via the Ashmore Reef (4 days to reach here) then Christmas Island (7 days) and finally up round the top of Malaysia (10 days) to Phuket, Thailand.

It's going to be a very very long journey but when else in life do you get to hop on a 3 week long sailing trip. I've stocked up on books, dvd's, chocolate, vitamin tablets, got a whole hull of the ship to myself complete with double bed and ensuite...living in luxury compared to some of the backpacker hostels in Aus. We've stocked up on several trolleys worth of food and it seems pretty certain we will be catching some huge tuna for dinner along the way. I had a tuna sushi lesson with American Ruth and Tim aboard their catamerang last night so that will be fun to try out when we're cruisin.

Won't have internet until Christmas Island so expect an update in a week or so,

Love from sailer Grace x

Sunning ourselves with excessive goon consumption

Well well well, what a lovely week or two we've been having. Today is my last day with Ro, Ray and Ju, the mighty mighty 4 is soon to return to 1. Since Sydney we've flown up to Cairnes and made our way down to Byron Bay so...

Cairnes
Stayed in Gilligans (the party hostel) where the reception area smells of the acadamy after Ramshackle - stale beer. Continued drinking lots and lots and lots of goon which lead to dancing on a bar with some rather toned and beautiful ladies, Mum you can send me to the nunnery as soon as I home.

Whitsunday Islands
I.E. lush. Spent 3 days aboard an 85ft yacht called Boomerang. Had a little go at steering and winching the sails up. After much budgeting in Aus we were treated to meals that actually contained meat which was very refreshing. Watched yet another cracking gap sun rise whilst cruising to the heavenly Whitehaven beach with a cuppa in hand. White Haven beach was very close to quintisential paradise but still think that Zanzibar's beaches are top of list. We met made friends with 2 english girls Romy and Sophie, they've actually been proactive enough to put pictures onto facebook so make sure you take a look if you can. Don't know about you lot but when I was a kid my favourite book was called The Rainbow Fish and when we were snorkelling I actually saw one which was very cool.

Fraser Island
So for all the geographers out there Fraser Island was formed by LSD (IR people remember that Athena comment?!) coming up the east coast to form this massive (biggest one in the world) island of sand. It's 70 miles long and has tropical rainforests and the clearest most beautiful freshwater lakes all over it. We travelled around the island in a 4x4 convoy with 24 people and me Ro Ju Ray Sophie Romy Rose (also from england) and our german driver Michael were in car 4 - the best car. The trip comprised whale spotting, stop offs to stare at beached turtles and mantarays and quick dips in the amazing lakes.

Byron Bay
Definitly one of my favourite places so far. Only a quick stop over but we went out on the town last night after playing a huge game of flip cup. Met a guy from the under 21 French rugby team called Francois. Cooked the best risotto last night as our final meal, 1 and a half months now before I will be seeing my lady's beautiful faces again. And today me and Ray went surfing. I reckon we were actually quite good, stood up and everything but there were the occasional moments when a 5 year old kid would cruise past whilst you're half drowning in the salty shallows.

Anyway, I've written a little more than I should. Tonight I'm catching a plane up to Darwin, completing my tour of every airport in Australia, and hopefully I will be able to find a spot on a sailing boat to Indonesia.

Love from Grace May Perry Coppplestone.

Reuniting downunder

With quick stops in Dubai and Kuala Lumpa I made my way through many airline meals across a fair few oceans. So all of a sudden I'm on the other side of the world in a place where our queen appears on the coins and everybody speaks english. It's almost as if I'm home in Bristol, we're even experiencing bitterly cold winter winds. However there's no drum and bass or cream teas so it's not quite home.

Melbourne
Started in Melbourne with a Mauricio (work friend engineer from Parsons Brinckerhoff). Stayed in his beautiful house in the plush suburb of Ivanhoe. Went for runs along the creek with his dog, baked a lemon drizzle and rode his vespa scooter around the grand prix circuit in the city. Thank you Mauricio for letting me stay! Big culture shock coming from Tanzania. It's amazing how nice it is to have clean water from the taps, roads without pot holes, the english language and warm loverly showers.

Then biggest news...greeted Ray (Rachel), Ro (Rosie) and Ju (Julia) having flown in from various corners of the world. It put the biggest smile on my face seeing my beautiful best ladies friends emerging from the bus and we've been having endless banter and fun ever since.

In Melbourne we climbed a very big tower, ate the lemon drizzle and had a magnum gold. (Ju and Ro introduced this delicious ice cream into my life and along with the custard apple I think it will be forming a significant part of my university diet.)

Sydney
Went on up to Sydney which is very cool and happening. Staying in the cleanest hostel I've staying in so far. (Wake Up incase anyones already been here) We've been cooking proper healthy meals Mum (salad and all). Went and watched the dissappointing England defeat, shame they went out because I wanted to wear my England shirt a little more. Went on a big night out fueled with lots and lots of cheap aussie wine (called goon here) and today we went on a little day trip to some mountains. Basically I couldn't be happier at this moment in time, we're heading up to Cairnes on Friday. Hopefully to a little more sunlight and heat and beach fun.

Hope alls well with everybody. I hear Bristol's starting to fill up again, don't have too much fun before I return and try and make sure the sun keeps shining for when I fly in.

Love from Grace x

The island of spice and all things nice

Zanzibar has been absolutely lush. We (Me, Nick, Dave and Nick's 2 sisters Anna and Lucy) started in Stone Town (mini capital). In keeping with tradition we kept up a constant diet of fresh delicious seafood. We headed into the markets and hunted down 5 realistic England shirts and many metres of beautiful african material.

4 clear events stick out on this island so I'll try and describe them (briefly)

1. England's opening match
We were based at the northern tip of Zanzibar for england's opener, we headed down the beach to a recommended local bar, 2 english supporters dressed in red fake england shirts with a big red cross on each of our faces. The bar was empty so we made the decision to RUN 3km to another place along the beach in the 25 minutes before the match began. We arrived, after being chased by dogs and stamping on coral and starfish the sweatiest people in the bar but I feel we showed true patriotism that evenin, shame about the score.

2. Crab search
In the north of Zanzibar decided I wanted some crab. We went on a wander to the fish market up the beach but it was closed. So a local guy took us through the winding alleys of the maze that is the village of Nungwi. After trying many places we ended up some guys front yard where 2 deep freezers sat and at the bottom of one sat a freshly caught blueish pink lobster. We had to go (me lobster in hand) to the local football pitch to find the lobster owner. After some bargaining I got it for 5000 Tanzanian shillings = 2 pounds 50. Cooked it with ginger and garlic, gert lush. (And didn't even get ill from it!)

3. Shooting Star
Stayed in a luxury honey moon hotel thanks to the generosity of Nick's dad. Me, Anna and Lucy shared a mini castle and spent the last evening taking a roof top, sun set bubble bath. The food was incredible and in Nick's words 'literally made you sigh with pleasure from every bite'. Loads of fresh fish and the best chocolate mousse ever.

4. Spice/fruit tour
If any of you ever come here make sure you do a spice tour. We ate ginger root straight from the ground, pepper corns from the vines and star fruit from the tree. Had a mini fruit tasting session my new/equal favorite fruit (after the custard apple) are the seeds of the cocoa bean, try it, their immense.

So that's it for Zanzibar and Africa and Nick and Dave who will shortly be flying down to South Africa for a little bit of football. I'm heading to Melbourne tomorrow to join Julia D-A, Rosie Gosling and Rachel Read for some FUN.

Love to all, Grace x

Just a quick post (more will follow). If you a participate in this new fangled "facebook" craze you might like to take a peak at Nick and Daves world tour - http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/group.php?gid=270210229910&ref=ts. There's updates of our adventures from Nick aswell as a few crackin pictures.

Love Grace x

Beach excursions

Mambo jambo all,

Firstly I hear you've been having a little bit o' loverly weather so I guess I can't do to much boasting about that side of things but anyway. So I have spent the last week or two on beaches in Kenya and Tanzania and it has been lush.

In Tanga, northern Tanzania I made friends with a Tanzanian rasta man named Mashaka. He worked down the local yacht (a word which africans cannot pronounce to save their lives) club in proper copplestone-perry fashion and managed to get me aboard a Belgium Eric's dhow, a traditional african fishing boat. We went out all afternoon, i steered and tacked and everything. Mashaka got a kid to deliver a fish on his bike to the hotel. Cooked it in the kitchen with tomatos and onion, very tasty dish.

North of Mombasa I had a go at fishing. Fished from a restaurant on the water and spent the day 'reeling off'?? not so good with all the terminology and drinking very many (too many) Tuskers (BEER). I caught a little white snapper, very proud moment and a very tasty fish.

Lastly, met up with Nick, Anna (Nick's sister) and Dave and sepnt 6 days in another of the Kenyan Wood's beautiful houses at a beach called Tiwi on the south coast of Kenya. It was pretty much paradise, beautifully designed huge house with 4 double rooms, white sand palm tree'ed beach, swimming pool + slide, caves with bats for our last meal and an immense cook to cook us the most delicious meals. The menu included fresh tropical fruit salads, curries, pizza, quiche, I'm sure a lot of you will be uninterested by this list of food but it literally was amazing. Had red snapper (didn't look or taste like a goldfish mum) caught and delivered fresh.

Sadly we had to leave Tiwi, took a mammouth journey all the way to Zanzibar. Just about to go exploring and hunt out a perfect bar for all the football to come.

Love Copplejiwe x

Tribes, alcohol and the custard apple.

So after leaving the farm we started on some proper backpacking with hostels and everything. For this blog rather than listing it all day by day I thought I might try a different approach. So I'm going talk about things topic by topic in the hope that it all might come out a little more clearly.

1) Tribes
Within Kenya, Tanzania and I'm assuming the whole of Africa each country is divided into 30 or so tribes. The tribe which you are part of has a massive impact on how you live. The two main tribes I've come across so far are the Maasi in Kenya and the Samba tribe in the Usambara Mountains (Named after them) in Northern Tanzania. Basically what the Maasi do is own huge shambas (areas of land) have loads of cows and thats about it. The Samba people on the other hand do a lot more farming and have maybe 2 cows. I've just finished a 3 day trek through the Usambara Mountains, to put it into Bristolian language they are 'like proper well lush and like tropical and hilly and that'. The Samba people own smaller shambas maybe the size of a couple of allotments and every single inch from peak to valley of the hills is used to farm potatoes and bananas and avocados. I reckon, due to the food I would choose Shamba.

2) Alcohol
So inevitably there has been a lot of alcohol comsumption. Beer first. There ain't no real ale round these parts but they do have some good lager, Tusker and Killimangaro are pretty lush and go for about 1 pound a pint. The other day me Nick and Dave (who are currently half way up Killimangaro) went on a barefoot (unprepared in the shoe deartment), muddy search for a water fall within the banana plantations above Moshi. We found it, it were lush, had a quick strip and dip and then on our way down had a try of the local banana wine. I would't say it was something I would try again, I was strong: 10% and very similar to home brewed cider but with a banana kick. Lastly on alcohol, these Maasi understandably have quite a lot of time on their hands. This means that you tend to come across a fair few mzees (old tribal men) who love to drink their home brew all day long. Came across a maasi mzee the other day, he spat on my hand, I spat on his we shoke hands and he made me spin around. Ever so slightly uncomfortable situation but nodding and smiling helped a lot.

3) Food
What would a blog from Grace be without a mention of food?? So in Kenya as I might of said there was a lot of ugali, very bland and stodgy but not so bad if you need something to fill you up. The farm workers would take massive lumps of the stuff and cram it in for breakfast lunch and dinner. In Nairobi for the day we got taken to a restaurant in the city where all the office workers go. I had a whole fish, it was very very good and I ate it all with my hand, impressive I know. Lastly on food is a new discovery of ours. After searching high and low around Nairobi we finally found this mysterious fruit: the custard apple. I don't know whether any of you have tried it but if you're in a hot country and you happen to stumble across it, buy it, it's probably the best fruit ever. (It's green, knobbly, mango sized). Apparently it has mystycal properties but this could be a lie.

As an extra, as I said I just got back from a trek in some mountains. Finished in a little village perched right on the very edge of the mountains called Mtae (google it). You could see all the way into Kenya one side, Killimangaro straight ahead and the Pare Mountains to the other side. Best view yet and one of the best sunsets so far.

So that's it for now, off to the coast in northern Tanzania then up to Mombassa to stay in a house of Nick's extended family again, they are the nicest family ever and then down to Zanzibar.

Love Grace aka Copper aka (in Swahili) Copplejiwe

Living with the Maasi

So time on the farm is drawing to a close and I've realised I haven't really explained why I'm here. Tarquin (Nicks 2nd cousin) and his wife Lipa own a farm in the Kenyan countryside just outside the Maasi Mara National Park and they're trying to set up their own conservancy and Nick and Dave have been helping out by mapping the area to work out how much land everyone owns.

I arrived 5 weeks after them so haven't got quite so involved in that side of things but instead have had the opportunity to try out loads of bits and bobs around the farm. Highlights have included:

- going to the local town to watch the premier league Chelsea match in a room full of banterous maasi chai drinkers
- riding a horse
- almost falling off a horse
- having a sundowner (beers+snacks+loverly view) on top of a mountain as the sun set over the Massi Mara
- spraying and weighing 3 herds of cows
- mixing several tonnes of dried sweet corn with bare feet
- going on a game drive (saw giraffe, wilderbeest, rhinos and ostriches)
- waking up to baboons on the front lawn and hippos in the mara river

The other night a horrendous amount of rain fell (49mm in a few hours) as we were on our way back home through the conservancy in Tarquin's 4x4. Inevitably, as darkness fell the car got stuck. The water was literally knee deep across the whole of the conservancy. 1 hour later and with a hypothermic Nick and Dave in the cab the tractor arrived to tow the 4x4 out and we all hopped out. Me Nick and Dave and Lusutu (conservancy scout) proceeded to get lost (torchless)stumbling bare foot through the extended river until Tarquin came skidding to the rescue in the tractor. To top it off, once back at the farm we had to wade through the stream turned waist deep river to get to our house. Pretty epic evening.

And last but not least, yesterday me and the farm manager organised a sports day between the local primary and the farm employees. The shopping list included:
- 4 goats (freshly slaughtered with Me N+D as witnesses)
- 2 sacks of maize flour
- 1 sack of cale
- 12 crates of soda
About 300 people turned up and participated in rounders, volleyball, football and an amazing relay at the end. Our muzungu (white people) team were badly beaten. Me Nick and Dave were presented with tradiational maasi outfits, probably one of the best days so far.

So thats it for now, this is much longer than it should be I'll shorten future ones, heading off on Tuesday to Arusha in Tanzania and then to Mombassa back in Kenya. I hope you are all well, love Grace x

Arrival

So I successfully arrived in Kenya. I am staying with Nick and Dave, friends from Bristol on a farm very near to the Massi Mara conservancy and have made it here with the help of Nick's very accommodating and kind extended family.

I've only been at the farm three days but have done a fair bit. We visited the local school in Emarti and were immediately directed to different classes to take lessons. I taught maths and english, I'm unsure of how much the kids actually understood of my english but they seemed to get the hang of hangman by the end.

I've also done some mapping (a project of Nick and Daves) which brings me nicely to the newest addition to my skill set...I have learned to ride a 125cc motorbike, clutch and gears and all. Seen zebra, baboons, and antelope so far whilst cruising around the conservancy from booma (house) to booma drinking lots of chai and eating lots of ugali (sort of stodgy plain porridge, staple of the massi diet).

Thats it for now, I promise I will get better at summarizing and writing slightly less. If it makes you feel any better it's the rainy season so there have been some huge showers but the heat seems to evaporate it all pretty quickly.

Route

Departure

So I'm going out into the big wide world tomorrow. I finished at Parsons Brinckerhoff and the Hope and Anchor last week after working 50 hour weeks by the end, my bag is (almost) packed and it's started raining just in time for me to leave Bristol. In proper Copplestone tradition I have been organised enough to create this blog and will be keeping you all informed of my little expedition.

Anyway I won't write to much now as nothing has actually happened yet. I've scanned in a copy of a little drawing I did for Mum of the route I'm thinking of taking. It's drawn ever so slightly out of scale but should give you a rough idea of the journey.

Ever since I watched that 'gap yah' clip on youtube I've become increasingly paranoid of how I might be perceived on this big old trip of mine. Lets just hope I manage not to chunder absolutely everywhere and stick to public toilets instead.

Love Grace